It’s kind of nice being in the “do it yourself kind of business” like soundproofing. In today’s world taking the family out on a Friday night for dinner and a movie might cost you more than your monthly mortgage payment. That is why many families are opting for their very own home Theater. If you have a spare room or an empty space in your basement or attic, you have a potential Home Theater.
It used to be that the best way to build a home theater or a home studio was to construct new wall within the existing room and then build what we call a “Room within a room.” Though this method of soundproofing is still quite effective, it is costly and eats up a lot of wall space in your already cramped theater room.
A better suggestion is to work with your existing walls by applying a new layer of drywall to the existing walls and ceiling but applying a layer of a product called Green Glue on the new drywall and sandwich it in between the existing wall and the new drywall. If you do this to all the walls and the ceiling you are well on your way to a great soundproof home theater. Now if your home theater is on a second floor, the ceiling now becomes less of a concern and now the floors become more of an issue. Floors can be soundproofed in many different ways depending on what the finished floor is going to be installed. If you are planning on having carpet and pad for the finished floor in your theater, then a soundproof floor underlay would be in order. Something like American Impactless soundproof floor underlay or American Impact Standard underlay. These are both recycled rubber products that would lie atop of the wood or concrete sub floor to stop the airborne sounds of the home theater from traveling down to the people below.
The Impactless is a less dense rubber underlay and would be perfect for under carpet and pad. The American Impact Standard would also be effective under the carpet and pad, but is more suited for hardwood and ceramic tile floors due to its sheer mass.
Other concerns that you might have with your home theater would be doors and windows. Let’s talk about doors for a minute; if you are trying to keep the movie in the home theater, then a hollow core door could be your worst enemy. Most modern bedroom doors are hollow core and do little in the way of soundproofing. Your best bet would be to go to Home Depot or Lowe’s and purchase a solid core MDF or solid wood door. You could ad an automatic drop down transom seal to the bottom of the door and also a door perimeter seal kit to seals around the door where it closes into the jam. A real soundproof door could cost thousands, with a little time and careful planning; you can get the same results at 1/4 the cost.
The last thing we need to talk about are the windows in your home theater. If neighbors are a concern, then I would suggest building window plugs with the 2″ America Mat closed cell vinyl nitrile foam mat. For example, if your window were 3′ X 3′, you would cut the foam to 3′1″ X 3′ 1″ thus giving the window plug and extra 1/2″ around it’s entire perimeter. This extra 1/2″ will help to hold the window plug tightly into the window frame much like a cork in a bottle. If the window is 4′ or more on either dimension, it is suggested that the window plug be glued to a backer board, something like wood paneling or Luaan. These wood panels can be found at home Depot or Lowe’s.
Well, I think we have covered every aspect of building your very own home theater; next time we will discuss acoustical treatments for your theater, until then, Dr. Bob…. Out!!!
By: Dr. Bob Orther
Archive for February, 2010
Soundproofing a Home Theater Using Green Glue Or Mass Loaded Vinyl
February 28th, 2010Best Home Theater Speaker and Sub Woofer Types
February 28th, 2010
Now lets decide on the the best home theater speaker and sub woofer that suits your needs and style. The speakers can be bought separately or as a unit. There are a number of complete systems available for sale now but it is best to stick to name brands. You can buy an Audio Receiver and hook your speakers into it, then run the output from the DVD player to the Receiver.. Be sure to read the directions carefully and take it step by step installing the system. You don’t have to buy the monster package with the quality cables and power protection but it does improve sound quality and protects against power surges and spikes.
Seperates are the way to go here, not those “All in one packages” sold everywhere. The larger the room, the more power in RMS Watt Output you will need. Most of the sales people that you will talk to, or the units that have the specs on them for you to read, normally give the power output in Peak Wattage. IGNORE THE PEAK WATTAGE NUMBER! It is a meaningless numeral in the industry. Find out the RMS(Root Mean Squared) Wattage, as this is the number you need to know. You may have a peak rating of 300 watts, but your RMS could be as low as 65 watts, or even lower! A good rule to keep in mind is 100 watts RMS.
Speakers are another matter. 5.1 is 5 speakers Left Main, Center, Right Main, Right Surround, Left Surround, and Subwoofer. 6.1 moves the rear surrounds to the side walls, and places a center surround in the rear. This system also requires a receiver built for 6.1 and these are not widely avalible. The speaker selection gives the system its voice. High Quality speakers are needed to correctly reproduce the signals fed to them. In typical setups there are the satellite speakers (5 in the case of a 5.1 surround system) and the subwoofer (which stands for the .1 in a 5.1 system).
Now for the Subwoofer. Subs sould have at least 200 watts RMS. Note that there is only one subwoofer because it produces the bass frequencies (anyway from 15Hz to 300Hz). This is because frequencies below about 250Hz are omni directional which means that your ears can hardly tell where the sound is coming from unlike the mid and high frequencies which are very directional. A good subwoofer usually has a response done to around 25Hz and is self-powered which means it has the amplifier built-in.
For the basic system get a receiver that is DTS ONBOARD not the “DTS Ready” garbage. DTS Ready means you will have to purchase an outboard DTS decoder, or a dvd player that has one built in. Many manufacturers are in this business, so take your time, shop around, and get the best home theater speaker and sub woofer that suits your need, style and budget.
By: Gasen Redeye
